Pearls Of Frankincense An Ancient Healing Wonder

Deeply revered for many thousands of years, the Frankincense tree has perhaps the greatest association with spiritual practice of any plant on earth. In many great ancient cultures, including the Egyptian, Babylonian, Persian, Hebrew, Greek and Roman civilizations, it has played a role in religious and domestic life. Frankincense resin has been sought after by kings, valued as highly as gold, and offered as a gift at the birth of one of history’s most revered prophets. More recently, the essential oil is gaining popularity with spiritual seekers and natural healers alike – what’s so unique about the rich smelling resin and it’s essential oil, and how might we use it for our own benefit?

The name is derived from the medieval French ‘franc’, meaning ‘pure’ or ‘free’, and from the Latin ‘incensium’, meaning ‘to smoke’. The Frankincense tree itself bears the appearance of a rugged survivor, with many knurled branches topped with abundant slim leaves. It is native to the deserts of North Africa, growing in some of the world’s harshest environments. It is not the tree itself, however, but rather its sap that is so greatly sought after. Similar to many evergreen trees, when pierced, the tree ‘bleeds’ a milky sap. The resin forms droplets known as pearls, which are dried in the sun to form hardened incense gum known itself as Frankincense.

For many millennia years, the hardened resin has been burned in temples throughout Asia, and the Catholic church continues to use it ceremonially. The smoke of burning Frankincense resin, as with other ritual incense, is thought to carry prayers to heaven. It is also said to deepen the breath and still the mind, making it useful for meditation and yogic practice. Some components of Frankincense stimulate the pineal gland, or ‘third-eye’, so this concept makes sense under modern scientific investigation. The incense may have health benefits as well, producing a highly antiseptic smoke, keeping churches and churchgoers free from disease.

Frankincense resin has been considered throughout the ages to have a wealth of health supporting properties. In Ayurveda, it has been used to treat many ills, and is well-known for it’s use in treating arthritic conditions. Modern investigation has found the components called Boswellic Acids can have significant support both to relieve joint pain and to further prevent cartilage loss.

Today’s naturopathic practitioners continue to use Frankincense, though the essential oil is now commonly employed because of it’s simplicity of use. It may be applied topically or taken orally with proper instruction from a qualified practitioner. There are many indications for the use of Frankincense oil, including asthma, depression, stress-related conditions and a weakened immune system. Further, Frankincense oil is now under investigation in university studies for it’s anti-tumor effects, particularly for skin and breast malignancies.

It is important to note that the CO2 distillation (a cold-process method of pure essential oil extraction employing harmless carbon dioxide instead of steam) is more likely to contain the same healthful compounds as the resin, as the steam distilled variety may not be able to extract these ‘polar’ compounds. Kurt Schnaubelt, America’s leading medical aromatherapist notes, regarding the production of essential oil from the resin, “It could be that the (health-related) substances in question are too polar and too large a molecular size to appear in steam distillates – their presence would be more likely in CO2 extracts.”

The most immediate and pronounced effect of the oil for many people is it’s ability to calm and elevate the mind. It’s wonderful woody-citrus aroma is pleasantly grounding and elevating at the same time. Components within the oil cross the blood-brain barrier, affecting the emotional centers of the brain directly.

Direct application to the temples and third eye will quiet the mind, deepen the breath, and promote meditative states. It is often combined with one or more of these essential oils with similar woody aromas and calming properties: Sandalwood, Myrrh and Cedarwood. Because these oils combine so nicely, it is easy to find a ratio of each oil in a blend to suit your taste

For use as a simple incense, the resin itself is inexpensive and widely available. The small ‘pearls’ may bit lit, and will release their pleasant smoke as any other incense. The experience of pure Frankincense is unique, and is worth trying for yourself.

For aromatic use of the essential oil, a diffuser or warming lamp can be used to disperse the aroma throughout a space. The oil is also found in aromatherapy candles, where it is released from the heated oil beneath the burning wick. Frankincense oil can be applied directly to the forehead where you can both capture the aroma and absorb the oil directly.

Frankincense, the treat from the tough desert tree, is now available to us all. Treat yourself to a little of this natural wonder, and see what sort of magic it can bring to your life!

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My Father’s Handmade Black Pearl Necklace And Pearl Appraisals

While in WWII my father sent home a necklace. On the box it says “Handmade black pearl necklace, purchased while he was in Italy.” It is black with orange beads between pearls shapes. It looks more like mother of pearl to me, but the black color throws me off. The pearls could be genuine, but to be sure you really need to get a professional evaluation either by an estate jewelry appraiser or gemologist.

Another way to tell if they are genuine is to rub a pearl against your teeth. If it is smooth, it is not genuine. Pearls will always have a roughness that you can’t detect visually. The orange beads could be coral. If they are genuine black pearls, their value would depend on size, quality and color. Something only someone with a “hands-on” examination could determine.

I’m going to sell an antique strand of pearls and a potential buyer asked to know how the pearls were “signed”. Generally in old items and even some new, signed simply means some means of identification of the maker or designer. On antique glassware for example, a signature mark may be pressed or cut into the glass. Some antique costume jewelry is “signed” with a makers mark and that does increase the value if the maker is among the popular ones at the time.

For pearls, a “sign” is difficult. The only place for a signature or makers mark is generally on the clasp area. This will be either on the clasp or the “tongue” that goes into the larger clasp body. Clasps can be changed when pearls are restrung and a signed clasp can always be suspect as to the real “maker” of the pearls. If these are genuine or cultured pearls, the value is likely more in the pearls than in the “signature”.

If these are costume pearls, the value is partially in the signature and then in the condition of the strand. The condition of the pearls is more imprtant than the condition of the cord used for stringing.Stringing can be and should be done regularly for pearls worn often.

I have not seen pearls “signed” very often and as I said, that can be suspect as to accuracy. Look for some mark on the clasp parts to see if any names or “trademarks” are stamped there. That will be the only signature you will have.

Could be the potential buyer is looking for a particular make of costume pearl or then again might be asking and not really knowing what the buyer is asking for! The best thing is for the buyer to look at the pearls and to offer you a price. If not happy with the price, just refuse it. Some buyers are in the business to resell the items and only offer prices way below market values.

It is possible to take the strand to a qualified jeweler for an appraisal. If the pearls are costume, the jeweler should be able to tell right away and advise against a full appraisal. If they are real pearls, the jeweler can appraise the strand based on the pearls, not on the antique value. That is at least a starting place.

I cannot see your pearl brooch but assume the pearls radiate in some floral pattern, perhaps on individual “stems” or as part of “flowers.” If this is the case, you have some space between the pearls which will make cleaning easier. If the pearls are closely grouped covering much of the gold, cleaning will be more tedious and difficult.

I will get into specific cleaning in a moment: First, consider care and cleaning of pearls in general. In a nutshell, cleaning the brooch yourself will come down to baking soda, a good jewelry polishing cloth and a mild detergent. You may opt for a jeweler to do the cleaning. I will get into the specifics later.

“Pearls.” Composition of a pearl and why care must be exercised in cleaning and wear. Pearls form naturally in both fresh and saltwater mollusks. The most well-known pearls are saltwater pearls formed inside various forms of pearl oysters. While “oriental” or totally natural pearls were the gems in ages past, pearl farming has led to a supply of cultured pearls which would be impossible from free ranging oysters and the efforts of pearl divers.

Only chance will bring a free swimming oyster to produce a pearl and only fortunate environment will lead to a natural pearl being well-formed, smooth surfaced and beautiful. In pearl farms, many conditions are controlled to help insure a good crop but today pollution in the waters are damaging the growth and supply of fine cultured pearls.

The pearl forms around some type of foreign object inside the oyster shell. In cultured pearls, the object is a bead of mother of pearl (pearl shell) placed into the oyster by pearl farmers. Seeing the object as an irritation, the oyster covers the object with layer and layer of a material called nacre. This is essentially the same material making the shiny and lustrous lining of the shell.

Pearl nacre is made of aragonite, a type of calcium carbonate. A sort of “pearl glue” holds together microscopic plates of aragonite. As long as the oyster is healthy, the nacre forms and becomes thick over the core, developing the luster and shine we recognize as a pearl.

Why all of that information? There is one reason: aragonite or calcium carbonate. This is the substance of the pearl, the nacre. This material is soft compared to earth formed gemstones. This material is easily damaged by acids, certain chemicals and abrasive substances. The general cleaning methods used for mineral gemstones cannot be safely used to clean the tarnished metal and pearls at the same time. Where a simple gold item may be placed into a mild acid to remove tarnish and buffed to restore shine, that same mild acid will etch the pearl and can actually dissolve it.

“What to avoid when cleaning pearl jewelry?” As important as how to clean the jewelry is knowing what “NOT” to use as a cleanser. Commercial jewelry cleaning liquids are too strong for pearls. Most of these cleaners contain ammonia and ammonia can damage the pearl, reducing the luster. Jewelry cleaners are pretty much ineffective in removing tarnish and are designed to free up and remove dirt and grime more than remove tarnish.

Avoid any cleanser with ammonia, chlorine or abrasives added. Avoid jewelry or silver polishing cloths with a red rouge layer. The rouge is a polishing compound but the red material(iron oxide) can easily get lodged in unseen recesses of a pearl and make the pearl unsightly.

“What to use to clean pearls and remove tarnish from metal?” Oh my, now we get into basic elbow grease! At home cleaning in the safest form is done by taking a wet paste of baking soda and gently rubbing the metal. If the tarnish is not severe, the mild abrasive nature of the damp soda will remove it. Rub with your fingers on the metal only, using a soft brush or implement such as a wet toothpick or cotton ear swab for hard to reach areas. To restore shine to the metal, follow-up with a fine quality jewelry polishing cloth metal.

I recommend one of the chemically treated cloths such as “Sunshine Cloth” from a jewelry parts and tools supplier. Other similar cloths are available at jewelry stores. Frankly, many jewelry store employees don’t know much about the cleaning supplies that sell. So be sure not to get the kind with a red rouge layer, even if recommended. Craft stores and jewelry stores often use RioGrande as a source and should be able to get a “Sunshine Cloth” for you. Like other similar cloths, light action quickly removes tarnish. With light tarnish, you may use the cloth alone and skip the baking soda. These cloths are used “as is” and are simply discarded when used up.

To follow-up this cleaning with a quick rinse in a mild dish detergent is a good idea. This will remove any residue. Simply take a mild solution of dish detergent like Joy (remember, no ammonia!),rub gently with the fingers, rinse in warm water and pat dry. That is it.

“Security of the pearls.” While cleaning the brooch, gently grasp each pearl and see if it turns on the mounting stem or within the setting. If on a stem of metal, the pearl should be removed and re-cemented with a clear two part epoxy cement. This is likely a job for the jeweler to do. If loose in a claw or prong type setting, a jeweler can quickly and gently tighten the settings.

“Cleaning by a jewelry.” You may decide to let a jeweler clean the brooch and secure any loose pearls. If pearls are removed and re-cemented, while the pearls are removed the brooch may be machine polished to an almost like new condition with no fear of damage to the pearls. If cleaned with the pearls intact, the jeweler will use fine rotary brushes to buff away the tarnish. Then, all is cleaned in a mild detergent solution generally using an ultrasonic cleaner.

Before you do any of the things that I have just suggeted to you, you should go see a jewelry and ask him some of the questions that I have just mentioned. That way you get all of your base covered and you will not tarnish the pearls.

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How To Diy Your Pearl Jewelry With Loose Pearl

At Shecy Pearl Jewelry, we not only provide awesome pearl earrings, pearl necklaces, pearl bracelets and pearl pendants, but also loose pearls and unfinished pearl strands. They are already for your own design. Pearls are popular craft product as they lend an element of mystery, natural beauty to jewelry designs, but making homemade pearl requires the ability to drill holes in dense, strong material that can’t be cut without special tools. However, you do not need to worry. We can drill for you for free!

We have many times been questioned about half-drilled and full-drilled pearls. Half-drilled and full-drilled pearls are used for different pearl jewelry. Half-drilled pearl is with a hole that goes only half-way through, instead of all the way through like a normal pearl. There are many findings that are made to take half-drilled pearls, like ring settings and earring posts. For half-drilled pearls, the hole length generally account for about two thirds or three fourths of the diameter of the pearl. Full-drilled pearl with a hole that a wire thread can go through. It is often used for pearl necklaces and pearl pendants. We drilled pearls by manual labor many years ago. Now, we use small drilling machines to make the whole process precise and easy. Various methods have been used for drilling pearls. Generally speaking, we place the pearl at a certain angle from the two sides, and the two holes meet at the centre at last. Some customers ask us if it is possible to drill pearls in size 2-3mm. From the technically perspective, the minimum diameter is 0.3mm for drill holes. As a matter of fact, it is really tough to drill in such small pearls.

The pearls are usually fixed onto a piece of jewelry using special glues, which make up of shellac, turpentine and colophonium. These special glues are used to stick the drilled pearl onto the metal findings. Mix and glue them, and push the metal end to the hole of pearl. It is common for pearls to come loose from pearl rings, pearl earrings and pearl necklaces because pearls are soft and easy to be damaged. Most glue will soften with heat and pearl can easily pull off from the peg. Therefore, they should also be protected from extreme temperatures and moisture. If the pearl on your ring or earring has fall off, just keep calm. You can repair it yourself. In fact, it’s quite easy to glue a pearl onto a ring or earring if it has come loose. Firstly, try to clean off as much of the old glue as you can, especially for the gunk on the post. Use good glue like E600 and apply it with the tip of a toothpick. When applying the glue, try to get some down into the drill hole. Dont use too much because it spreads easily and then the glue will on the body of the pearl. The pearl shouldn’t be worn until the glue is completely cured.

If you love handcrafted jewelry, why not do it yourself? Just take a first try!

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Step Instructions On How To Make A Pearl Tin Cup Necklace

There is nothing more lovely than the classic elegance of a tin cup necklace. The floating pearl necklace is not only beautiful, but it can be easy to handcraft if you know how. These are step by step instructions on how to make a pearl tin cup necklace.

The first step is to gather your supplies. You will need a piece of thin sterling silver beading chain, nine pearls, two 2mm silver crimping beads for each pearl (so eighteen total), and a silver lobster claw clasp. This is to make a 16″ pearl tin cup necklace. If you prefer a longer length, you may want to add additional pearls. You should always use an odd number of pearls so that one will be in the center of the chain. Other useful tools will be needlenose pliers designed for jewelry making, a tiny drill, a ruler, and a smooth surface or tray upon which to work.

Once you have gathered all of your materials, it is time to begin. To make things easier, it is a good idea to gently enlarge the holes drilled through the pearls with your tiny jewelers’ drill. This will allow them to slide freely along the chain while you are spacing them. String all nine pearls onto the silver chain with one of the 2mm crimp beads on each side of every pearl. The crimp beads will be used to fix the pearls in their stations for the tin cup necklace design.

Next, affix the loop end of the lobster clasp to the chain using your pliers. Lay out your chain along the ruler, and attach the claw end of the clasp so that the finished length will be 16″ including the clasp. At this point, the pearls will still be sliding freely, but they will not be able to slide off the ends of the chain.

Then it is time to start spacing the pearls. It is extremely important that the spacing is even along the chain. The center three pearls are the most noticeable, so take extra care to get them spaced perfectly. You will secure the center pearl first. Hold the necklace up by the clasp ends so that gravity pulls all of the pearls to the middle of the chain. Squish the first crimp bead beside the center pearl. A handy trick is to then hold the necklace up by one end so that the pearl will fall down flush against the first crimped bead. You can then crimp the bead on the other side of that pearl, knowing that the crimp beads will be as close as possible to the pearl. When the tin cup necklace is complete, the pearls should be nice and still at their stations, with no gaps between them and the crimps.

After the center pearl is in place, set the two on the clasp ends of the chain. Lay the necklace along the ruler, and measure 1.5″ from the clasp into the chain. That is where you should secure the next pearl. Following the same procedure as with the center pearl, crimp the beads to affix the two end pearls. Next, go back to the center, and secure the pearls on either side of the middle one, again being careful that they are spaced equidistantly. Then finish it off by crimping the beads to position the remaining pearls, working back and forth to ensure that the spacing comes out evenly.

Ta-da! There you have it, a gorgeous pearl tin cup necklace. Not only will you get years of enjoyment from your floating pearl necklace, but you will have the feeling of pride which comes with making it yourself. And if you love the style of tin cup necklaces, but are not the crafty sort, don’t worry; you can always have one made for you by a jewelry designer, and you will enjoy it just as much.

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Pearl Necklace Shopping Made Easy

Purchasing a pearl necklace can be a daunting task because if you really want top quality pearls there are a number of questions and steps to take to ensure you do get the quality that you are seeking. Pearls are beautiful and a very stylish accent to any wardrobe. The questions and steps with some explanation will be addressed below.

Do you want natural, cultured, or imitation pearls. Please note that imitation pearls are custom jewelry and they don’t have much value. Natural pearls are next to impossible to find in stores they are also of a lesser value than cultured pearls.

There are choices of the shape of the pearls that you want. Pearls can be symmetrical, baroque, or irregular. Sphere like pearls are most costly and they are greatly sought after. Symmetrical pearls and tear drop shaped pearls should be even all over.

The size of the pearl is a great issue involving the price. The size of the pearl will affect the price. Bigger is better and they are also more expensive. If money is not a big issue size will only matter by your choice.

Depending on how much you want to spend, what kind of necklace do you want? Do you want a multiple strand with smaller pearls which are less expensive or do you want a single strand of larger pearls which are more expensive.

When inspecting pearls under direct light and on a flat white surface. Check every pearl for luster. Lustrous pearls have shiny surface. There should be good contrast between light and dark, as well as strong and crisp reflections. Avoid pearls that have white and cloudy look to them.

What is the pearls orient a play of iridescent rainbow with high quality colors. Ask whether the color is natural or dyed. The latter is less expensive. More exotic natural colors are more effective.

What is the pearls overtones a tint secondary to the main body color. Pink tones can increase the price and blues can reduce the price. You can verify that the pearls are clean by making sure there are minimal defects such as nicks, cracks, pits, or discoloration.

Turn the pearl around and check it at all angles. The color, the shape, smoothness, and luster cannot all cannot be different on a single pearl. Roll a strand of pearls on flat surface to test them for roundness. If they are round they will roll more smoothly and evenly. If they are not round you will feel it when the pearls are rolled, it could feel like going over a bump.

There are three steps you need to take to recognize real pearls from imitations. Run the pearls along the bottom edge of your teeth. A real pearl will feel gritty and or sandy. A fake pearl will feel smooth.

Look at and feel the pearls. Flawless pearls and those that feel light when you bounce them in your hands are probably fake. Check out the pearl under a number 10 magnifier ( a loupe). Imitation pearls appear grainy. This is definitely a process and it is up to you to do whatever you can to check the value of the pearls. If necessary bring someone who is knowledgeable with you.

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